Research Brigada: Parte Tres

The days starts with everyone just as excited as when we went to sleep.

We sit and wait after a quick breakfast to be "presented" to everyone before we begin the interviews.

The main lawn is empty besides our small group and no one is really sure what to expect.

Then, from our right, marches out a masked Zapatista followed by all of the children of the community wearing handkerchiefs and masks. They march around the lawn and stop in a line facing us.

The men come out next. The community leader who was wearing a grin and a "Vacation Club" ball cap yesterday, now looks rather intimidating in a mask and black leather cowboy hat. He directs the group through a few maneuvers and and then lines the group up facing us.

The women follow shortly afterwards, many with small children.

A color guard retrieves the Mexican flag and both the Mexican and Zapatista anthems are sung. After the anthems the groups disperse and food is served.

After interviews, I go caving with a small group of locals. What fun!

We go to three different spots and climb around through caves, check out huge cave spiders, and bang on stalactites which make sounds like a marimba.

Afterwards, more river, more food, more work. We finally go to sleep and are up again at 3:30AM to start trekking to the next spot.

Research Brigada: Parte Dos

I currently find myself surrounded by about 9 local kids all looking over my shoulder trying to figure out what I am doing. They don't seem to lose any interest in us as they have kept post at our windows since we have arrived.

9 has increased to 15 now and they are discussing what I could possibly be doing in their native language of Chol. But I've gotten ahead of myself here.

Yesterday progressed with a quick breakfast followed by a meeting with the junta, the leaders at the Zapatista capital. Plans were made and after a few failed attempts at catching a truck out of the community we finally made it out on the "school bus" with a couple of fellows who would be our guides.

The bumpy ride in the back of the truck was made even more enjoyable by the giggling and bantering of the young adults watching us unsuccessfully try to keep our footing.

From the city, we took a small collectivo to a local tourist destination. From there is was a half an hour hike through the forest. At the trail head, a sign warned tourists not to progress because of frequent attacks. Good things we weren't tourists...

[It must be noted that a herd of 9 piglets just ran by]

We hiked through the jungle, across crude bridges, and finally to a river edge. A wooden sign announced that we had entered autonomous land.

The crystal blue river was broken up by short, but dramatic waterfalls.

A small boat was poled over to us and we made it across in two trips. On the other side we were openly greeted. My bag disappeared as all the children were so excited to carry our things for us.

We set up camp in the school. After we explained our purpose for being there, it was time for a river bath. Suddenly every child was ready for a bath! We swam and dove and played for about an hour before coming back to a simple but hearty meal of beans, tortillas, and spaghetti.

Tired. We went to bed early.

Research Brigada: Parte Uno

First day in a Zaptista capital completed. After a winding, sleepless 4 hour bus ride, I unrolled my mat in the back of a pineapple truck and grabbed a few hours of sleep.

A long drive into the forest, including a part where road and pond were the same. The site of grass thatched roofs finally came into view.

The first thing I saw was a sign reading:

"Esta usted en territorio Zaptista en rebelda aqui manda el pueblo y el gobierno obedece."

Next to the sign stood two masked figures. Behind them a brightly painted building with Zapatista murals. These two masked individuals are the ones we need to convince to let us stay.

We explain our motives for investigation and hand over our passports. We are told to wait in a cabin across the street while a final decision is made.

After some time we are invited in the official government building to speak with the local leaders. Four people, three men and a woman sit behind a desk. Black masks.

The afternoon was spent catching up on sleep, swimming, and then playing basketball with the Zapatistas. While playing basketball, I couldn't but help compare this place to my Aunt's campsite in Massachusetts: sign-ins, latreens, swimming, cooking by fire, and fun activities for the kids at night! The only difference is that this campground is the result of an insurgency and has been declared autonomous territory.